Traditional Watch Vocabulary
If you don’t understand the title, then all that tells me is that you didn’t obsessively watch and commit to memory Jony Ive’s Apple Watch introduction video from 2014.
The Classic Buckle was Apple's take on the most traditional watch strap. The band was available as part of the launch series of bands for the Apple Watch beginning in the spring of 2015 and remained in the lineup until it was discontinued in the fall of 2018 when Apple introduced the Apple Watch Series 4.
One peculiar aspect of the Classic Buckle's history is that unlike any other band Apple has released, this band went through several iterative design updates in its 3.5-year existence. Each step added new features and refinements to the band. Here is my entry chronicling the short history of this beloved band.
Pictured above are all four generations of the Apple Watch Classic Buckle, showing the band's four iterative designs. From left to right: First-generation black classic buckle; second-generation Classic Buckle with filleted edges; third generation with filleted edges & matching stitching; & the 4th generation band with filleted edges, stitching, and a new spring-loaded square buckle.
1st Generation (Spring 2015 - Fall 2015)
Available from the spring to the fall of 2015, The original classic buckle was constructed out of a thick piece of textured leather that softened over time and a highly polished stainless steel buckle that matched the stainless steel Apple Watch.
The first iteration of the Classic Buckle launched alongside the original Apple Watch and was the most "oh hey, that's just like a regular watch" style of band.
Here's how Apple described the Classic Buckle at the time:
"From the renowned ECCO tannery in the Netherlands, the Dutch leather used for this band is milled to give the grain a subtle, distinctive texture. The simple closure is crafted from the same stainless steel as the case. It's a beautiful take on a traditional band design. Available in black."
The Classic Buckle was available at launch for both the 38 & 42mm Stainless Steel watch models, available either paired with the watch or available for purchase separately at $149. The band was also used in two of the Edition tier Apple Watches, coming in a 42mm Black and Midnight Blue colour with 18K yellow gold clasp to match the watch. The Edition models both retailed for $15,000, while the matching bands for these watches were never sold separately.
One of the 42mm Edition models included an exclusive Midnight Blue Classic Buckle with 18K yellow gold buckle and clasps to match the watch.
I've always loved how harmoniously the Apple Watch & the Classic Buckle have worked together. With this band, the watch looked far less "computer fastened to your wrist" and more like a digital timepiece elevated by the subtly textured leather band and the highly polished rounded stainless steel buckle.
2nd Generation (Fall 2015 - Spring 2016)
The second generation Classic Buckle in Black & Saddle Brown introduced a new two-tone look, filleted edges, and a new calf leather.
After only five months on the market, the Classic Buckle received its first redesign during Apple's September 2015 event, the same event where Apple released the iPad Pro & iPhone 6s line. The band was updated to use calf leather and now had a two-tone finish (Black outside, Saddle Brown inside), and was also now available in a second colour: Saddle Brown, in addition to Black. Other changes included the milled texture on the black band become subtler than it had been on the original Classic Buckle, the tapered end was now rounded (vs. squared off), and the edges received a filleted finish (i.e., that indentation running alongside the band).
Here is Apple's description of the updated Classic Buckle:
"This traditional design has been updated with a new calf leather that ages naturally over time to acquire a beautiful patina. The contrasting interior lining creates a dramatic two-tone look, and the filleted edge detail provides a clean geometry."
Four different Classic Buckles were introduced in the second generation. From left to right: a calf leather Saddle Brown with filleted edges (shown here on a 38mm Apple Watch; a two-tone Black Classic Buckle with filleted edges (displayed on a 42mm Apple Watch); a two-tone Black Classic Buckle with filleted edges & matching stitching on a 42mm 18K yellow gold Apple Watch Edition; and a two-tone Midnight Blue Classic Buckle with filleted edges and matching stitching on a 42mm 18K rose gold Apple Watch Edition.
In addition to the Stainless Steel bands' updates, the Classic Buckles for the Apple Watch Edition received a further refinement not found on the other Classic Buckles in this generation. The Edition tier bands also received matching stitching alongside the band's length in addition to the updated two-toned look, rounded end, and filleted edging. Midnight Blue continued to remain an exclusive colour for the Edition line, though it was now paired with an 18K Rose Gold 42mm Apple Watch while the Black band remained paired with the Yellow Gold Edition.
Both the Black & Saddle Brown Classic Buckles continued to be sold with the Stainless Steel Apple Watch or sold separately for $149, and each was available for both 38mm & 42mm watch cases. The Edition bands remained unavailable for individual sale.
3rd Generation (Spring 2016 - Spring 2017)
The third generation Classic Buckle pictured in Marine Blue.
We saw Apple's Classic Buckle's third iteration at their Spring 2016 event (other product highlights include introducing the 9.7" iPad Pro, iPhone SE, & Woven Nylon Apple Watch Bands). This latest redesign brought the colour-matched stitching first seen on the Classic Buckle included with the Apple Watch Edition brought across the lineup. All previously added changes from the second redesign (new leather, two-tone, and filleted edges) were also carried over to this update.
The third-generation Classic Buckle came in a range of colour options. From top left to bottom right: Red, Marigold, Blue Jay, Marine Blue, Sea Blue, Black, Saddle Brown, Storm Gray, Midnight Blue, & White.
In addition to the traditional Black & Saddle Brown bands, Apple introduced a range of new colours for the Classic Buckle, including Blue Jay, Marigold, Marine Blue, Midnight Blue (now available outside the Edition model for the first time), Red, Storm Gray, & White. In autumn 2016, Apple discontinued Blue Jay, Marine Blue, & Storm Gray but added Sea Blue to their lineup.
4th Generation (Spring 2017 - Fall 2018)
The fourth generation Classic Buckle pictured in Sapphire.
The final iteration of the Apple Watch Classic Buckle came on March 21, 2017. That morning Apple also released a collection of new colours to their band line-up, released a PRODUCT(RED) iPhone 7 and a budget-minded 9.7" iPad.
In addition to new colours, this iterative update to the Classic Buckle replaced the rounded stainless steel buckle with a more prominent spring-loaded squared buckle that Apple advertised as "making it easier to insert the band."
Here is Apple's description of the updated Classic Buckle:
"This traditional design is made from a calf leather that ages naturally over time to acquire a beautiful patina. A contrasting interior lining creates a dramatic two-tone look, and the color-matched edge stitching provides a subtle complement. The new square buckle is spring loaded, making it easier to insert the band."
The fourth-generation Classic Buckle introduced even more colour options across its lifespan than the third generation. From top left to bottom right: Ruby (a PRODUCT(RED) band), Berry, Pink Fuchsia, Red, Soft Pink, Cosmos Blue, Sapphire, Electric Blue, Midnight Blue, Dark Aubergine, Black, Saddle Brown, Taupe, Sunflower, & Spring Yellow.
As you can see, Apple offered a massive amount of colour options for their latest band. That Spring, Apple updated their Red, Midnight Blue, Saddle Brown, and Black bands with the new squared buckle and added Berry, Sapphire, & Taupe to the lineup; while that summer saw the addition of the Sunflower band to the lineup. In the fall of 2017 Apple added a Ruby PRODUCT(RED), Cosmos Blue, Dark Aubergine, & Pink Fushia to the lineup. In the spring of 2018, the Classic Buckle's final update added a new Spring Yellow, Electric Blue, and Soft Pink option to the lineup.
Final Thoughts
Apple never outlined why they discontinued the Classic Buckle, but in the Fall of 2018, all remaining Classic Buckles disappeared from the online store. And It's not as though Apple wanted to shy away from Leather since it kept updating its Modern Buckle and Leather Loops even after discontinuing the Classic Buckle and even added the Leather Link in 2020. Maybe Apple didn't like how the bands took on a more worn and deformed look over time, or perhaps it just decided that this traditional classic no longer fit in the world where the Apple Watch had begun to surge in popularity.
Apple continues to sell a "classic buckle" design through their partnership with Hermès, which remains in the lineup and is updated seasonally with new colours and flourishes. But at a starting price of $339, these bands are far more expensive than the $149 Classic Buckle ever was.
With a subtle and intriguing history behind it, the Classic Buckle remains one of my favourite bands Apple has released to date.
KUDOS
I have a lot of appreciation for the folks behind Bandbreite whose website and companion app were an invaluable resource in the writing of this entry.
